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I remove warp and grind plates flat after heat treating using several pieces of equally spaced graphite glued to the plates. With the graphite in place, I turn the machine’s magnet strength down (if possible) and grind the graphite down to about 0.010 in. I then flip the part over and clean up the other side. This produces a perfectly flat plate every time.
On-line name fmariMariTool Pa.
I grind the warp out of plates held down on electro-magnets by backing off the hold power until I can almost move the piece by hand. I then take light passes with the convex side up to be ground heavy passes can heat up the plate and warp it in the other direction.
Once the first side is done, I flip the plate over and grind the second side, again using light passes.
On-line name Chris999 Rochelle, Ill.
My shop was converting all its die sets to quick-change arrangements, and one of the components for this job was aluminum blocks for mounting small feeders on the side of each die set. Each set required two 2 in. by 4 in. by 1.5-in. blocks which were to be cut from a 1.5-in.-thick sheet measuring 4 ft by 12 ft.
While it was initially thought to cut out the blocks using a vertical bandsaw, we opted to use a circular saw, such as one you’d find at a hardware store, with carbide blades. The cutting went a lot faster.
I set the plate on steel saw horses, scribed out the lines for the blocks and equipped myself with ear plugs, coveralls, and gloves. The first 12-ft-long cut took about 7 min, during which, a coworker sprayed the sawblade with W-D 40. After cutting all the long strips from the sheet, we stacked 4 or 5 of them together and cut them to length in a gravity-feed Kalamazoo bandsaw.
Cutting aluminum plate with a circular saw works great, but it is a loud and messy process. However, with a steady hand and plenty of W-D 40, the process produces cut edges that look as if they had been machined. But note, it is a two-man job, one cutting and the other spraying W-D 40 and holding the back side as the saw moves along.
On-line name hyskilevel Brimfield, Ill.
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For me, this is the fastest way to dial-in a 4-jaw chuck.
After rough aligning to the chuck rings, I use a dial indicator on the workpiece, rotate the spindle through one complete revolution and note the highest and lowest indicator readings. I then continue rotating the spindle and halt at exactly midway between those two readings (high and low) and zero the indicator bezel to the needle.
I rotate the spindle to bring jaw #1 “on plunger” and adjust jaws #1 and #3 to re-zero the indicator. At this point, I rotate the spindle 90 degrees and adjust jaws #2 and #4 to once again zero the indicator. And, I’m done.
On-line name Bob R. Northern Calif.